In a blender, blend the vegetable stock, chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, tamari, tomato paste, molasses, liquid smoke, and olive oil until smooth.

Add the contents of the blender along with the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, mushroom powder, nutritional yeast, garlic powder, red yeast rice powder, coriander, and black pepper to the bowl of a stand mixer. Mix on medium-low with the paddle attachment (not the dough hook) for 8 minutes, until the dough is firm and pulls into ropey strands.

In a food processor, blend the melted coconut oil, cold soy milk, apple cider vinegar, vital wheat gluten, tapioca starch, white miso paste, garlic powder, and nutritional yeast. Process for 30 seconds, just until a grainy, oily dough forms.

Transfer to a container and refrigerate for 15-20 minutes to stiffen the coconut oil.

Divide the meat dough into 3 pieces (about 13 oz. each) and flatten each into a rough 7x5-inch (18x13 cm) slab, about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick.

Divide the fat dough into 2 smaller pieces and 2 larger pieces. Press each small piece to about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, making them slightly uneven on purpose. If they have holes in some places, that’s fine, maybe even preferable for natural looking marbling. Press the large piece to about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick for the fat cap, again keeping it somewhat uneven.

Stack the layers in this order: thicker fat sheet, meat slab, thin fat sheet, meat slab, thin fat sheet, meat slab, thick fat cap. Let the inner fat sheets stop short of the edges in spots so the seams look natural and the meat encapsulates the inner fatty layers.

Press the stack down firmly to shape it into a 14 inch long log, no thicker than 2 inches (5 cm) at any point. It's ok for the shape to be irregular.

Wrap it tightly in 2 layers of parchment paper or cheesecloth and tie with butcher's twine every inch (2.5 cm) or so. Too much slack lets the gluten puff up and go spongy, which sorta sucks.

In a wide Dutch oven, whisk together the red wine, bbq sauce, vegetable stock (or water), smashed garlic cloves, bay leaves, poultry seasoning, tamari, and liquid smoke. Bring to a boil.

Lower in the roast and reduce the heat to the lowest possible simmer. Cover the pot and cook for 70 minutes, flipping the seitan over once or twice during the time it cooks.

Turn off the heat and let the roast cool in the liquid for a full hour.

Lift out the roast and strain the braising liquid, or just remove the garlic and bay leaves with a slotted spoon.

Simmer the strained liquid over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1 cup (240 ml), stirring often toward the end so the sugars in the bbq sauce don't scorch.

Heat the oven to 310°F (155°C), or a smoker to 250°F (120°C). Unwrap the roast and pat it dry.

In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, smoked paprika, thyme, pepper, garlic powder, mustard powder, chipotle powder, and coarse salt.

Brush the bbq sauce over every surface of the roast, then press the rub on hard, especially on the fat cap.

Set the roast on a rack over a sheet pan. Bake for 40-45 minutes. It’s done when the crust is almost black in spots.

Cool the roast to room temperature, then refrigerate it for at least 8 hours. Don't skip this, because it sets the fat seams and firms the inside enough to slice cleanly.

Slice thinly across the layers, and serve with additional warm jus poured on top.

To reheat, steam the slices for 2-3 minutes, or warm them in a skillet over medium-low heat with a splash of jus.