In a large bowl, whisk together the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, mushroom powder, nutritional yeast, onion powder, garlic powder, red yeast rice powder, Kashmiri red chili powder, coriander, and black pepper.

In a blender, blend the ice-cold water, wine, tamari, red miso, tomato paste, tamarind concentrate, blackstrap molasses, liquid smoke, and olive oil until smooth. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mix.

Knead in a stand mixer on medium-low for 8 minutes, until the dough is firm and rubbery and pulls into ropey strands.

Cover and rest for 15 minutes, then mix for 2 more minutes. That second knead gives you the grain we are looking for.

In a food processor, blend the melted coconut oil, cold soy milk, and apple cider vinegar for 90 seconds, until it turns into a thick white emulsion.

Add the vital wheat gluten, tapioca starch, salt, asafetida, and garlic powder. Process for 30 seconds, just until a dough forms.

Transfer to a container and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes to stiffen the coconut oil.

In a small bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, vital wheat gluten, and water to make the glue.

Divide the meat dough into 3 pieces (about 12 oz. each) and flatten each into a rough 7x5-inch (18x13 cm) slab, about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick.

Divide the fat dough into 2 small pieces and 1 larger piece. I like to split the dough in half, then cut one of those halves into quarters. Press each small piece to about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, making them slightly uneven on purpose. Press the large piece to about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick for the fat cap, again keeping it somewhat uneven.

Stack the layers in this order, brushing a very thin coat of glue between each one: meat slab, thin fat sheet, meat slab, thin fat sheet, meat slab, thick fat cap. Let the inner fat sheets stop short of the edges in spots so the seams look natural and the meat encapsulates the inner fatty layers.

Press the stack down firmly and push the sides in to form a tight, tall brisket shape about 3 inches (7.5 cm) thick. Keep the shape wide and flat-ish.

Wrap it tightly in 2 layers of cheesecloth and tie with butcher's twine every inch (2.5 cm) or so. Too much slack lets the gluten puff up and go spongy, which sorta sucks.

In a Dutch oven, bring the red wine, vegetable stock (or water), dried porcini mushrooms, smashed garlic cloves, bay leaves, poultry seasoning, tamari, and liquid smoke to a boil.

Lower in the roast and reduce the heat to the lowest possible simmer. Cover the pot and cook for 70 minutes, flipping the seitan over once or twice during the time it cooks.

Turn off the heat and let the roast cool in the liquid for 1 hour.

Lift out the roast and strain the braising liquid.

Simmer the strained liquid over medium-high heat until reduced to about 1 cup (240 ml).

Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C), or a smoker to 250°F (120°C). Unwrap the roast and pat it dry.

In a mortar and pestle, coarsely crush the black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and mustard seeds. Mix in the smoked paprika, garlic powder, and salt.

In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil and blackstrap molasses together. Brush it over every surface of the roast, then press the rub on hard, especially on the fat cap.

Set the roast on a rack over a sheet pan. Bake for 30-35 minutes, brushing with the reduced jus at the 20-minute mark (or smoke for 1 hour, brushing with jus at the halfway point). It's done when the crust is near-black and crackly.

Cool the roast to room temperature, then refrigerate it in a container with ¼ cup (60 ml) of the reduced jus for at least 8 hours. Don't skip this, because it sets the fat seams and firms the inside enough to slice cleanly.

To reheat, steam the slices for 2-3 minutes, or warm them in a skillet over medium-low heat with a splash of jus.